In the northwest corner of Michigan’s mitten, a small town called Charlevoix sits on an isthmus between two lakes, connected by a historic drawbridge. With fewer than 2,500 residents, Charlevoix is a tranquil and idyllic town with a genuine Midwestern spirit. Known as the home of the famous Mushroom Houses and surrounded by lakes, neighboring Petoskey often overshadows this charming Michigan town, but it is worth a visit on its own. From cozy coffee shops to ferry rides, Charlevoix might be slower paced, but there’s plenty to keep you busy during a long weekend getaway. We’d even go so far as to say it’s the perfect small town for an extended stay, encouraging slowing down and reconnecting with nature.

*The famous drawbridge in the heart of downtown Charlevoix. View from The Weathervane Restaurant terrace.*

Quick History

The original summer retreat, Charlevoix became popular after the Civil War when academics from the University of Chicago visited the Michigan town and turned it into the “Chicago Club.” From there, it grew as an exclusive resort town for the summer months, welcoming guests via train, boat, and car, including Chicago gangs who brought their business to Charlevoix during Prohibition. They even turned one of the popular clubs into a gambling spot for the city’s power players. Charlevoix has a unique literary connection to Ernest Hemingway, who spent many years of his childhood in Northern Michigan and went on to marry his first wife, Hadley, along the shores of Lake Charlevoix. However, Charlevoix’s true claim to fame is the unique Mushroom Houses built by 20th-century Michigan architect Earl Young.

The Location

Recently ranked one of America’s best lake towns by Travel + Leisure, Charlevoix is perfectly located for a Midwestern getaway. Driving, the town is about six hours from Chicago, four hours from Detroit, and under three hours from Grand Rapids. 17 miles and less than thirty minutes southwest of Petoskey, Charlevoix’s isthmus location offers a unique opportunity of two separate lake experiences. Lake Charlevoix, located on the eastern side of the town, is a vibrant, azure blue lake that naturally warms due to its more landlocked position compared to its neighbor, Lake Michigan. Lake Michigan, with deeper blue hues and sometimes a grey coloring, tends to be colder, especially early in the season. It’s also prone to choppier waters, but it's worth a visit for the shoreline alone.

*Standing on the shoreline of Lake Michigan.*

Living That Fairytale Life: The Mushroom Houses

One of Charlevoix’s most famous attractions is the Mushroom Houses, built by Earl Young, a northern Michigan native. The houses have been called many names, including Gnome Homes, Fairy Cottages, and Hobbit Houses. Young was primarily a self-taught architect, having completed only one year of university studies in the field. Beginning in 1918, Young built 26 homes and four commercial properties over his fifty-year career. His unique style, reminiscent of fairy-tale cottages, primarily used materials sourced from northern Michigan, such as stone, limestone, fieldstone, and boulders. While the houses vary in size, they each feature stone walls, a mushroom-shaped roof, and boulder-framed windows. Each build was unique and designed to blend seamlessly into the surrounding natural environment.

As the decades passed, Young’s houses evolved from a similar structure to the style made popular by Frank Lloyd Wright to the more striking, fairytale style for which they became famous. Young’s Mushroom Houses can easily be seen while walking through Charlevoix. Self-guided tours are available, but as each of the residences is privately owned, visitors are asked to respect the property and their privacy. Those looking to step into one of Young’s creations can do so at The Weathervane Restaurant or by staying at the Weathervane Terrace Inn & Suites.

Checking In: The Earl of Charlevoix

Like most small towns, Charlevoix has dozens of B&Bs and inns to consider for your stay. You could also check into The Earl of Charlevoix. This boutique hotel seamlessly blends modern design with the natural elements of northern Michigan, creating a cozy and welcoming retreat. The team at The Earl is friendly, accommodating, and knowledgeable about the local region, should you need recommendations. The rooms are spacious and clean, and many have balconies, allowing you to step outside at any time of day and breathe in the crisp lake air. The main floor lobby features a cozy lounge area with a fireplace, full-service bar, and light menu. The real gem of The Earl is the rooftop overlooking the entirety of Charlevoix. With sweeping 360-degree views, the rooftop is the ideal spot to catch a sunrise, sunset, or live music in the evenings. Grab a book and grab a few rays of sun before heading out to dinner.

*Rooftop sunset views from The Earl of Charlevoix looking towards Lake Michigan.*

What To Do: From Boutique Hopping to Catamaran Rides

Charlevoix may be small, but it's certainly mighty. The stretch of Bridge Street alone is packed with boutique shops selling everything from coastal-style clothing to handmade jams and salsas. Enjoy an afternoon supporting local small businesses and the independent brands many of them carry. The cherry salsa from Cherry Republic is worth a sample! Maison & Jardin Boutique has unique finds, and Dockside Books is the perfect place to browse for something to read during your stay.

Those looking to dive into Charlevoix’s history have plenty of options, starting with the famous Mushroom House Tour! There’s a great self-guided option for those looking to check out each of the homes at their own pace. For a more formally guided tour, Mushroom House Tours is the highest-rated attraction in Charlevoix! Take a tour of Castle Farms, built in 1918 by Albert Loeb, acting President of Sears, Roebuck, and Co. The property is renowned for its gardens and grounds, which are ideal for picnicking, as well as the World War I Museum, featuring collections of items from the Great War era, including toys, household items, and more.

Nature lovers will have an endless number of activities and places to visit while visiting Charlevoix. With both Lake Michigan and Lake Charlevoix on either side of town, it feels as if there’s endless shoreline. Enjoy a hike along the Michigan lakefront or one of many trails, including Charles A. Ransom Nature Preserve, a 1.2-mile loop trail, or Fisherman’s Island State Park & Beach, a 2,678-acre park with five miles of shoreline. For a day of cycling, check out Little Traverse Wheelway, a 26-mile bike trail that goes as far as Harbor Springs.

Those looking for a day-long adventure can take a ferry out to Beaver Island. The largest island found in Lake Michigan, Beaver Island is known for its history as a Mormon Kingdom before the infamous leader was killed. It later evolved into an Irish settlement, with descendants comprising the majority of the population today. Beaver Island offers cultural and historical tours, as well as outdoor activities such as hiking, kayaking, and biking, along with stargazing opportunities. If you’re lucky, you might catch a glimpse of the northern lights.

Finally, don’t leave Charlevoix without getting on the water. Sunshine Charters offers daily catamaran tours from the friendliest of captains, Josh and Gary. The “Sunshine II” is a 40-foot-long offshore sailing catamaran with comfortable seating, plenty of space, and a crew that quickly becomes your friends. They have extensive knowledge of the Charlevoix region and beyond, sharing many great nuggets of information about things you come across while sailing. If we could have spent the entire trip on the Sunshine II, we would have.

*Aboard Sunshine Charters, just past the drawbridge sailing towards Lake Michigan.*

Bon Appetit! Where to Grab a Bite

Start the day with a sweet or savory crepe or one of many other delicious pastries at That French Place. This casual European cafe serves a variety of crepes to go, homemade quiche, expertly crafted pastries, and beverages that will keep you coming back for more. Another casual spot with a more unique menu is Harwood Gold, a cafe and market. This local hotspot serves a mean cappuccino along with sweet and savory hand pies. The Chicken, Leek, & Mushroom is our favorite, but don’t skip the sweet options either. The shop sells a variety of pantry and kitchen items you’ll be making room in your suitcase to take home. The store’s signature maple syrup has been made on a local family farm for 125 years.

*That French Place is conveniently located next to Dockside Books. Grab a coffee before heading to the bookstore!*

For a heartier brunch and waterfront views, head to Bridge Street Taproom. This popular spot serves brunch daily, making it the go-to place. Get there early or be prepared to wait for a patio seat if you’re visiting during peak season. Bridge Street offers an extensive selection of beer and cider, but if cocktails are more your style, they also have a variety of rotating seasonal options to choose from. For a more traditional dining experience, The Weathervane Restaurant serves regional cuisine while offering spectacular views of the drawbridge on the outdoor terrace. One of the buildings designed by Earl Young, The Weathervane has been feeding locals and visitors alike since the 1950s. Order the Whitefish Trio to start for authentic local flavors. The Risotto and Pan-Seared Half Chicken are delicious mains, but don’t miss out on the Bread Service.

Enjoy a nightcap at Vue Wine Bar, sipping a glass of red as the sun sets over Lake Michigan. Vue has a spectacular view of both lakes, but most notably its vantage point of Lake Michigan during sunset. With over 100 wines on tap from around the world, there is something for everyone, and cocktails for those who decide they’d like something more spirit-forward.

*Sunset views of Lake Michigan from the patio at Vue Wine Bar.*

Overall Vibe

Charlevoix is unapologetically midwestern. The people are friendly, and the locals welcome tourists and visitors. It’s a quiet, small town, and most businesses close relatively early, but there’s so much energy throughout the day. The length of Charlevoix’s downtown area is easily walkable, and there are plenty of ways to get near the water. It’s great for any traveler, from solo to families and everything in between. We recommend Charlevoix for a weekend getaway or an extended weekend. If the slower pace speaks to you, there are many great options for longer rentals to accommodate an extended stay. We’ve certainly considered it!

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